repairing fly lines

[easky]

Hi Guys

www.ukswff.co.uk/Tips_Flyline_Repair.shtml

Saw this link on another forum and thought it sounds like a good solution. Anybody tried the methods suggested?

Easky

[colliedog]

Hi Easky,

I will give this a try as I want to extend my Snowbee 2D lines from 35 to 40+ yards using some running line.

Previously (in the days before polyleaders and loop to loop connections were in common use) I would custom build sink tips by adding a length of intermediate or sinking line to the end of a floater (with a DT, a different density to each end gave you a reversible line). The method I used was to strip about 1 1/2in of coating from each piece of line, overlap the cores and sew them together using kevlar thread before whipping over with rod thread and aquasuring. A bit of a faff but the resulting connection is slick and very strong. This was the method I was planning to use on the Snowbee but I'll try this idea first.

Regards

CD

[easky]

would be interested to see how you get on CD, have had a wee accident with one of my lines

cheers

E

[para1]

I have used this method for some time, I also use it at the ends of my line to keep the loops tidy.
If you don't mind the colour, B&Q do a pack quite cheap, some is to big to use but always comes in handy.

[JAD]

Just how strong is the inner core of a fly line...I've managed to nick the outer coating of my Ian Gordon spey line...

[JAD]

Thanks for that Dave.

I'll try the super glue method first.

Tight lines

John

[colliedog]

I gave the above method a try this morning with a few old bits of fly line. I tried the following: repair a nick, join two sections of broken line, make a welded loop.

Wasn't that enamoured with it. Very difficult to control the application of heat and found it all too eady to melt the core. Best results were repairing a nick.

Joining two sections resulted in a big lump in the line - useless. making a welded loop was pretty unsuccessful too. Very hard to judge the difference between the plastic not melting enough to fuse and complete meltdown.

Also have a fine array of blisters on by thumb and forefinger. Admittedly I was using quite thin running line so results might be better with thicker running line. I could experiment further but can't be @rsed. GOing to stcik with the tried and trusted.

CD

[easky]

sounds like it was less than successful , its good to experiment though even to rule it out for future

[ibm59]

Strip , Knot , Whip & Aquasure.
Don't overdo the whipping , it probably isn't neccessary anyway , or you'll end up with a very inflexible loop.
Be sure to coat the area where the coating resumes to prevent water getting up under it. Cores ROT and you don't want that happening.

[splash]

Not wanting to have CD suffer further third degree burns but I noticed the following advice on creating welded loops on the Monic Flylines Website. Looks a bit dodgy to me rolling that molten plastic between your fingers though

www.monic.com/info.htm

Has anyone tried the Monic Spey Lines. I'd be interested in their experience. They are supplied in grain weights and have a red stripe to mark the head actually built into the coating. I have several of their salt water lines and these are superb, they fly like the proverbial arrow when wet. They are a pretty innovative company and I would be interested if anyone has tested one of these lines

cheers

Splash

[speycaster]

do you useshrink tube to make your welded loops it stops you from burning the fly line