Snowbee Shooting Head

[Sloggi]

Looking back through this section, most of the discussion on shooting heads (SH) revolves around Guideline, Vision, Loop with good reason, no doubt.

However, following the impressive review in a recent T&S I purchased a Snowbee floater. Being new to SH I was happy to find idiot proof instructions and, with some sound advice from GRitchie, soon had the line racing through the rings of my Loop Blue Line (13'). I fitted a 10' Intermediate polyleader and eventually cut approx. 3' from the reel end of the line. Boy does it go

Spey casts with a good "thump" and overheads with ease. Turns the leader over quite nicely and all for £25 - tremendous VFM.

[Sloggi]

springer said:

They are excellent, I have the intermediate and fast sink, shame they didnt make more sinkers. The Snowbee scandi spey lines are even better.

Bought the intermediate and fast sink models today. Pity they didn't make a medium sinker. The Loop blue line has come to life

[Sloggi]

springer said:

Consider chopping the front taper about 18' on the inter, it then handles the 10' and 15' montieth tips beautifully. Airflo one's to I guess although I don't use them much

Might as well attach running line to the Monteith Tip and be done with it

I find the Snowbee shoots better when speycasting with a few inches of line in the rings but overheads better with about a foot and a half of running line overhanging. This seems to work well with both casts, but is it the way it's "supposed" to be if such an assumption can be made?

On another point, I have been unable to find braided loops thick enough to go over the reel end of my 10/11 Guideline PT so I needle knotted a length of 20lb Maxima into the line and tied a loop to make a loop-to-loop connection with the braided loop attached to the running line. However, I'm concerned about a) the thinness of the nylon between the thick line and slightly less thick running line - will this wear/cause problems over time and b) will this thin section (about 2") affect casting? Is there a way to needle knot but pad the nylon to give a more even flow between running line and head?

Hope that made sense

[splash]

[/quote]

On another point, I have been unable to find braided loops thick enough to go over the reel end of my 10/11 Guideline PT so I needle knotted a length of 20lb Maxima into the line and tied a loop to make a loop-to-loop connection with the braided loop attached to the running line. However, I'm concerned about a) the thinness of the nylon between the thick line and slightly less thick running line - will this wear/cause problems over time and b) will this thin section (about 2") affect casting? Is there a way to needle knot but pad the nylon to give a more even flow between running line and head?

Hope that made sense
[/quote]

Make your own using 50lb braided nylon. Both Gudebrod and Cortland supply 50lb braid and it will easily accommodate the thick end of a Power taper. You can normally pick a spool up on eBay form a US seller for a few dollars and I think Flytek may supply the Gudebrod braid in the UK. Ensure that you make double catch loops as these will never pull out. I just whip or nail not mine to the head. Here is how to do it

www.danblanton.com/gettinglooped.html

cheers

Splash

[Sloggi]

Top man Splash Thanks - that will save a whole lot of fuss

[splash]

sloggi said:

Top man Splash Thanks - that will save a whole lot of fuss

The good thing is that you can make the loop any size that you desire and big enough to slip the reel through for a quick release, although admittedly you can achieve the same result by creating a large loop in the SH running line. I wish I could find a good source of the wire for the loop puller though. You can use a bobbin threader but something slightly longer is better. Any suggestions anyone?

[splash]

davewallbridge said:

splash said:

I wish I could find a good source of the wire for the loop puller though.

I use an old 4" long, pointed, darning needle. This is fairly substantial and, if necessary, can be gripped with pliers to pull through.
Not quite as long as suggested in the (linked to) article but does the job without too much effort. The eye opening is approx. 1.5 mm wide and 8 mm long so it is relatively easy to thread the braid by squashing it flat between the finger and thumb and presenting the eye up to it.
Mine was found in a sewing basket owned by my late mother in law but I'm sure you can still buy similar at any good sewing shop.

Dave.

Thanks but its really the wire I'm looking for to make 24" blind dacron or braid loops for my saltwater set ups. Any ideas?

[splash]

davewallbridge said:

splash,

How about a high BS 'Elasticum' trace wire ?

See my PM.

Dave.

That was my original thought but I'm not sure if you can buy it these days as all the pike fuishers seem to have gone towards the soft multifilament type

[Sloggi]

springer said:

Sloggi,

PM me your address and I will make you some if you need a few. Ive got a spool of 50lb braid.

Thanks Springer

[robbie]

I believe that the lure fishermen in the Pike fraternity now use a stiffer wire when using "jerk bait" type lures. This may well be the answer.

[jmac]

Try a single wire guitar string folded in half. Should be long enough.

[Sloggi]

Following on from the excellent Snowbee floater, I have had considerable success using the intermediate version. It is truly superb Casts beautifully and presents the fly delicately. Sinks fairly slowly but gets down enough in the peat-stained Dee to find the fish. If I need to go deeper, a sinking polyleader does the job.

Lovely line and only £25 each. If you're looking for shooting heads, you really can't go wrong with some of these.

[ianjones]

Springer do you use them on your LPXe? if so what size and lengths do you use?
Thanks
Ian