Post by elwyman on Apr 2, 2006 13:06:44 GMT
Article by Bob Wellard, from www.aapgai.co.uk/singlespey.html
By Bob Wellard APGAI
Looking through a few course notes I'd put together, I found the following.....which may be of interest to those just starting out.
Target Alignment - For maximum efficiency the caster needs to be aligned with the target. Begin by positioning the upper body with the target, feet in a stable position also pointing towards the target. Maintaining the feet position, turn the upper body so your are facing downstream. With the line on the dangle and the rod tip near the water (no slack line under the rod tip), lift the rod to approximately 10 o'clock.
Turn the upper body from the 'start' position, looking down river and, 'un-twisting' at the hips, sweep the line up river. The sweep needs to encompass body and hand/ arm movement. The rod tip needs to 'climb' gradually through the switch culminating in a final lift to the 2 o'clock position - forming the 'D' Loop.
As the 'D' loop forms you should now be facing towards the target, with the forward cast starting from a 'balanced' and perfectly 'aligned' position; the 'D' loop at 180º to the target. A good analogy for forming the 'D' loop is to imagine 'stroking the back of your hand along a cat's back - gradually increase hand (rod) speed as the cat lifts its tail'….remember the line will always follow the rod tip. The curve of the cat's tail and the speed by applied at the rod tip will determine both the shape and the amount of line energy transferred to the 'D' loop.
Optimum Rod Loading - In Spey casting the back-cast is made in the shape of a 'D' Loop. Providing momentum is maintained during the lifting phase, the 'D' loop will be 'energised' and provide optimum 'loading' for the rod spring. If momentum is lost or if the rod 'stops' at any time during the back cast, the 'D' loop will collapse. The back cast requires a continuous fluid movement to the point where the backward movement carries over into the forward acceleration phase.
With the 'D' loop at full stretch we produce 'Optimum Rod Loading' - having the right head weight to balance your rod is essential. Too heavy and the rod will overload and buckle. Too light and you will need to over-compensate and increase 'casting energy'….. all day long.
The 'head' length (Rear Taper, Belly, Front Taper) will determine the size of the 'D' loop. The head weight will determine the amount of load 'felt' by the caster. Longer heads (>60'), often the choice of the more 'traditional' caster, will throw a large 'D' Loop suitable for open rivers, whilst shorter heads (<60'), used more in the 'Underhand' style, utilises a smaller 'D' loop and is the preferred choice on small rivers and where the back cast area is greatly reduced by obstructions.
Anchor Points - The anchor point aids the loading of the rod prior to the final delivery - it also stabilises the 'D' loop and allows for an element of control over the amount of line exposed to the rear of the caster. The anchor point needs to be positioned underneath and near parallel to the rod tip, approximately 1 ½ x the rods length away from the caster.
To avoid line 'crossover' -
For a single Spey, position the fly slightly upstream of the target -
For a Double Spey or Snake Roll, position the fly slightly downstream of the target.
Correct positioning will make it that much easier to 'un-stick' the line from the water. Anchor points that fall too far downstream or too far upstream of the target have reduced efficiency and a greater degree of line 'stick'. Having too much line in the anchor or excess slack-line will cause excessive line 'stick', requiring a greater amount of 'casting energy' to lift the line from the water.
Smooth Acceleration to a Stop - As in all forms of fly casting, it is essential the rod accelerates 'smoothly' through the acceleration phase and finishes with an abrupt STOP. With the 'D' loop at full stretch and the fly line 'energised', the rod can be flexed against the line load. The rod tip needs to travel on the same plain with the top and bottom leg of the 'D' loop parallel and at 180º to the target.
Any amount of late flexing (creep) will concentrate the acceleration phase and may cause the rod tip to follow a concave path - resulting in a tailing loop. To counter this - try extending the rod tip into the energised 'D' Loop (drift) and apply a longer stroke. Stop the rod between the 10:30 -11 o'clock position and follow through as the line unfolds above the rod tip.
Trajectory - How high you make the 'Pitch' in the forward cast largely depends on how deep you are in the water. You can guarantee, for every 6" of wading depth, you are likely to reduce your distance by as much as 3ft or more. Wading to chest depth will greatly reduce your ability to lift a long belly line into the 'D' loop and so this is where short lines and shooting heads really are a bonus.
The short head is easily positioned with a relatively short and near vertical movement of the rod tip. A line with a long head length requires a long sweep in order to form an energised 'D' Loop. The problem is, gravity takes over and the belly section of the line touches down prematurely. If when you're wading, your casting starts to fall apart, try putting slightly more casting energy into the lift, energise the 'D' so that it takes the form of a '>' loop and 'drift' the rod tip back even further.
Try not to 'lay' the line on the water. You can do this by starting at a slightly lower start point and emphasising the gradually climbing movement of the rod tip into the 'D' loop. Drifting back into the 'D' loop will allow you more time and a longer stroke so you can 'hit the cast higher', increasing the trajectory as you wade deeper and hopefully distance.
Have fun!
Bob Wellard
By Bob Wellard APGAI
Looking through a few course notes I'd put together, I found the following.....which may be of interest to those just starting out.
Target Alignment - For maximum efficiency the caster needs to be aligned with the target. Begin by positioning the upper body with the target, feet in a stable position also pointing towards the target. Maintaining the feet position, turn the upper body so your are facing downstream. With the line on the dangle and the rod tip near the water (no slack line under the rod tip), lift the rod to approximately 10 o'clock.
Turn the upper body from the 'start' position, looking down river and, 'un-twisting' at the hips, sweep the line up river. The sweep needs to encompass body and hand/ arm movement. The rod tip needs to 'climb' gradually through the switch culminating in a final lift to the 2 o'clock position - forming the 'D' Loop.
As the 'D' loop forms you should now be facing towards the target, with the forward cast starting from a 'balanced' and perfectly 'aligned' position; the 'D' loop at 180º to the target. A good analogy for forming the 'D' loop is to imagine 'stroking the back of your hand along a cat's back - gradually increase hand (rod) speed as the cat lifts its tail'….remember the line will always follow the rod tip. The curve of the cat's tail and the speed by applied at the rod tip will determine both the shape and the amount of line energy transferred to the 'D' loop.
Optimum Rod Loading - In Spey casting the back-cast is made in the shape of a 'D' Loop. Providing momentum is maintained during the lifting phase, the 'D' loop will be 'energised' and provide optimum 'loading' for the rod spring. If momentum is lost or if the rod 'stops' at any time during the back cast, the 'D' loop will collapse. The back cast requires a continuous fluid movement to the point where the backward movement carries over into the forward acceleration phase.
With the 'D' loop at full stretch we produce 'Optimum Rod Loading' - having the right head weight to balance your rod is essential. Too heavy and the rod will overload and buckle. Too light and you will need to over-compensate and increase 'casting energy'….. all day long.
The 'head' length (Rear Taper, Belly, Front Taper) will determine the size of the 'D' loop. The head weight will determine the amount of load 'felt' by the caster. Longer heads (>60'), often the choice of the more 'traditional' caster, will throw a large 'D' Loop suitable for open rivers, whilst shorter heads (<60'), used more in the 'Underhand' style, utilises a smaller 'D' loop and is the preferred choice on small rivers and where the back cast area is greatly reduced by obstructions.
Anchor Points - The anchor point aids the loading of the rod prior to the final delivery - it also stabilises the 'D' loop and allows for an element of control over the amount of line exposed to the rear of the caster. The anchor point needs to be positioned underneath and near parallel to the rod tip, approximately 1 ½ x the rods length away from the caster.
To avoid line 'crossover' -
For a single Spey, position the fly slightly upstream of the target -
For a Double Spey or Snake Roll, position the fly slightly downstream of the target.
Correct positioning will make it that much easier to 'un-stick' the line from the water. Anchor points that fall too far downstream or too far upstream of the target have reduced efficiency and a greater degree of line 'stick'. Having too much line in the anchor or excess slack-line will cause excessive line 'stick', requiring a greater amount of 'casting energy' to lift the line from the water.
Smooth Acceleration to a Stop - As in all forms of fly casting, it is essential the rod accelerates 'smoothly' through the acceleration phase and finishes with an abrupt STOP. With the 'D' loop at full stretch and the fly line 'energised', the rod can be flexed against the line load. The rod tip needs to travel on the same plain with the top and bottom leg of the 'D' loop parallel and at 180º to the target.
Any amount of late flexing (creep) will concentrate the acceleration phase and may cause the rod tip to follow a concave path - resulting in a tailing loop. To counter this - try extending the rod tip into the energised 'D' Loop (drift) and apply a longer stroke. Stop the rod between the 10:30 -11 o'clock position and follow through as the line unfolds above the rod tip.
Trajectory - How high you make the 'Pitch' in the forward cast largely depends on how deep you are in the water. You can guarantee, for every 6" of wading depth, you are likely to reduce your distance by as much as 3ft or more. Wading to chest depth will greatly reduce your ability to lift a long belly line into the 'D' loop and so this is where short lines and shooting heads really are a bonus.
The short head is easily positioned with a relatively short and near vertical movement of the rod tip. A line with a long head length requires a long sweep in order to form an energised 'D' Loop. The problem is, gravity takes over and the belly section of the line touches down prematurely. If when you're wading, your casting starts to fall apart, try putting slightly more casting energy into the lift, energise the 'D' so that it takes the form of a '>' loop and 'drift' the rod tip back even further.
Try not to 'lay' the line on the water. You can do this by starting at a slightly lower start point and emphasising the gradually climbing movement of the rod tip into the 'D' loop. Drifting back into the 'D' loop will allow you more time and a longer stroke so you can 'hit the cast higher', increasing the trajectory as you wade deeper and hopefully distance.
Have fun!
Bob Wellard