hardygem
Member
LIVE AND LET FISH
Posts: 104
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Post by hardygem on Feb 6, 2007 18:39:00 GMT
Does anyone use the Guideline Power Taper shooting head lines if so would you recommend them and how many of the various different lines would someone actually need if they were fishing primarily scottish rivers .They do seem at first glance to be a one stop solution to all conditions and based all on one reel has to be good , i'm thinking of heading in this direction so would be interested to hear from anyone who is using them
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Post by madkeen on Feb 6, 2007 19:03:32 GMT
I have started to use them this year and they are good but think it depends where you do most of your fishing.
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hardygem
Member
LIVE AND LET FISH
Posts: 104
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Post by hardygem on Feb 6, 2007 20:42:08 GMT
thanks for replying madkeen most of my fishing is done on middle and upper Tay and on the Annan at the back end
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Post by storlaks on Feb 6, 2007 20:46:07 GMT
I have the floating/sink1 (long head version), sink1/2 and 2/3. That should cover most fishing conditions.
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Post by madkeen on Feb 6, 2007 20:51:44 GMT
Well if your fishing on the Tay would say to get yourself one and try it if you like it get another couple.I started of with the S2/3 10/11 on my B+W 16ft powerlite and it matches it well.I have just bought S1/2 and S3/4 and these will cover all eventualitys.Bought mine off Salmonfly he will do you a good price and only take a few days to arrive(from sweden)hes cheaper postage than most UK firms.I like you fish mostly the Tay and these lines easily cast 35yds. Alan
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Post by leo on Feb 6, 2007 20:59:55 GMT
I was thinking about getting a power taper line or two. Can anyone tell me what the DDC version with different sinking tips is like? Or would I be better off getting separate lines?
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Post by wilbert on Feb 6, 2007 21:06:09 GMT
I am looking at getting a full set of these lines for use with my B&W Norway 15' #9/10 and 15' Powerlite speycatser 10# would I be better to go for the #10/11 lines or go for the #9/10 lines as most of my lines for these rods are #10/11 weight and they handle them fine.
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say
Member
Posts: 162
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Post by say on Feb 6, 2007 21:16:06 GMT
Wilbert,
I've just bought some shooting heads from Salmonfly (10/11) and will be trying these out on Saturday on my B&W Powerlite #10 and Norway 10/11.
I'll let you know how I get on, but I'm pretty sure they will be a good match.
SAY
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hardygem
Member
LIVE AND LET FISH
Posts: 104
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Post by hardygem on Feb 7, 2007 6:29:15 GMT
Springer,
At present i use snowbee lines on my Hardy15ft but i also have a LPXE 15ft which is what i wanted the power tapers for .I have also considered the Bil Drury lines but i liked the idea of the versatility of the power tapers
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Post by storlaks on Feb 7, 2007 9:33:21 GMT
Totally agree with Springer. I was advised that if you want to keep the head longer then go for heads one rating lower than your rod requires. Good advice.
Guideline did release longer headed Power Tapers in Float/s1 and hover I think. These heads were 17yards long and personally I prefered the extra length. Again, I would now opt for a 9/10 for a 10/11 rod and try and keep most of the head length. The 10/11 worked Ok, but I had to cut it back to around 14 yards.
I would recomend you also consider the Loop shooting heads. IMO these are better. They seem less bulky and I believe they now offer double density heads.
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Post by hairyscotsman on Feb 7, 2007 10:51:35 GMT
I have started using the power tapers and find i get a great cast with them if you can store the running line. I would suggest you look at tacklebargains.co..uk for the loop double handed adapted shooting heads they have the whole range for 12/13 ft rods up to 15/16ft rods in a 10/11. These lines are designed for a certain rod length and weight so you are sure to find the EXACT line to match your specs without any cutting.The best part is they are reduced from £39.99 down to £14.95 !!! They have float intermediate/slow sink/fast sink.
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Post by petersc on Feb 7, 2007 16:34:37 GMT
Don't overlook working short PTs with shorter rods. My 12' 6" 9/10 casts 10/11 PTs cut back to 33' to 34' on the end of mono running line very, very well. I started out casting PT heads on 14' 6" and 15' rods but now I'm down to 12' 6" and liking it. To tune a PT head (assuming you haven't done this before) requires a bit of the coating to be stripped off using a loop of mono, then a perfection knot tied into the core. If it's too heavy, then cut off a foot or two and repeat. Once the right length has been obtained, make your permanent loop. I've used PT heads successfully on Daiwa Lochmors and a Snowbee so there's no reason to expect that a PT head won't work on the typical, medium stiff to stiff, UK rod. Guideline has a useful chart and Scierra has their PWF cut tool to approximate cut points. As a general guide to AFTMA rated rods, heads in the 33' to 34' range should be one over the rating, 36' to 38' should match the rating and 42' plus should be one under. Having said that, testing on the river is the only way to be sure. I've had three Loop Adapted heads and while very nice, they don't have the overall utility of a set of PT heads. I prefer the facility of tuning the PT head to suit my uses. For general use on typical rivers, I'd select a F/I, Hover, S1/2, and S2/3. I own everythiing down to S4/5 in three sizes as some of the rivers I fish are deep and fast, but the S3/4 and S4/5 don't come out for the more typical, moderate flows. However, if I was starting over tomorrow, I'd begin with the DDC Connect line, which couples a slow intermediate belly to dual density 13' sinktips -- an awesome casting and fishing line. One of my fishing buddies did very well with this line this fall/winter. One can make a case that a DDC line is all one needs. Here's a small website I wrote up to assist our local sinktip-using steelhead anglers pick up some info on the use of Scandinavian shooting heads. Some of it will bound to be old news here, but a few bits may be useful. home.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/scando-2.htmlHTH Peter
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hardygem
Member
LIVE AND LET FISH
Posts: 104
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Post by hardygem on Feb 7, 2007 18:34:56 GMT
Thanks guys for the replies and all your advice and comments much apreciated Ross
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say
Member
Posts: 162
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Post by say on Feb 9, 2007 19:21:15 GMT
Guys,
Looking for advice on how to connect these lines to the running line. I've just bought a running line and a couple of heads and I was surprise to find that there are no loops fitted.
My question is do you fit roman moser type loops to the ends or is there another method.
Any help appreciated
SAY
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Post by turrifftackle on Feb 9, 2007 20:34:09 GMT
Vision ACE shooting head system.
Requires no cutting- has anyone tried these?
I am tempted to stock these rather than the Guideline power Tapers. The thought of cutting lines frighten a lot of folk.
Opinions sought.
Thanks
Frank
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say
Member
Posts: 162
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Post by say on Feb 9, 2007 20:42:23 GMT
Springer,
Thanks for the info, I've now found the website and will 'tune' the set-up in the next week or so. I'm on Park tomorrow so I don't intend wasting time tuning the shooting head set-up.
SAY
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jock
Member
Posts: 286
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Post by jock on Feb 9, 2007 21:27:25 GMT
I can't comment on the lines, but I can say I would rather not buy a line if someone told me I had to cut it. I know cutting is done and done successfully but it is not for me.
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Post by petersc on Feb 9, 2007 22:35:50 GMT
Jock, they are made to be cut. After you've done it once . . . As far as the Vision Ace heads go, I have a couple of floaters and two of the F/S2 models. You're right, they're to be used right out of the box (but no loops though) and that's a comfort to the Jocks of the world, but if the head doesn't match your rod very well, what then? The floaters cast very nicely but the F/S2 model casts like an old boot. Unlike the PT heads, ACE heads don't have a graduated density change -- it's an abrupt one -- with the resulting clunk on the turnover. I like fishing them as they match the conditions of my local river well, but the casting leaves something to be desired. As far as loops go, braided 50 lb. double catch ones work just fine. I make my own loops out of running line or you can splice a loop like some do. I understand that some Scandinavian casters just use the naked fly line core. I'd be tempted to stock both.
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Post by petersc on Feb 10, 2007 0:24:24 GMT
I agree wholeheartedly that heads should be cut to fit, but the Vision ACE heads, out of the box, have a rear taper plus the length is predetermined. So, if you need 38' to get the weight you need and your Vision is only 36' out of the box, well you're buggered. With a PT head, you can cut long or cut it short. With a Vision ACE, apart from leaving it as-is, your only other option is to cut it short. Another note of caution -- ACE and PT heads don't match up weight-wise at the higher ratings. My ACE 10/11 floater is 545 grains at 37' while my 10/11 PT S3/4 is 540 grains over 34'. While this is a nice set up, having a short full sinker and a longer floater, it may not work out this way with a different combination of ACE and PT heads. BTW, if you wind the head over your splayed fingers then hold the coils together with wire chenille, you don't get the tight coiling problem of the foam spools. Here's a picture of one of my home storage wallets and one of the smaller wallets I use while on the water. home.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/P2090181.JPGPeter
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Post by madkeen on Feb 10, 2007 9:40:36 GMT
Does anyone know what the guideline 11/12 heads weigh uncut.
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