Post by castlikeaghille on Apr 16, 2007 20:17:28 GMT
Greeting Knights of the Rod & Line
This is thread number 3 of the posts I was challenged to produce If Reading [The] Water requires a book, then this topic could fill a library. So at a very high level, some observations on the following:
1. 3 Core Presentational Styles
2. Deep and Slow in Cold Water – Approach with Circumspection
3. Angle Verses Distance
4. Mending
5. Handling
6. Free-Lining With Shooting Heads
7. Cast and Step/Attacking the Lie
As with other threads there are a couple of assumptions:
1. This is about using double handed fly rods with some form of floating, multi-sectioned tip line or shooting head
2. I assume that most people are comfortable with “Whamming it out at 45 degrees, mending and letting it swing” – aka The Bleedin’ Obvious (TBO)
All observations and comments, counter or otherwise welcome.
Three Core Presentational Styles
In presenting the flee (or flees) you are generally trying to achieve one of three things:
1. Holding a bait in front of a salmon as long as you can (e.g. J-Curving on narrow angles)
2. Inducing a take i.e. by suddenly moving a bait away from in front of it’s neb (e.g. Czech Nymphing)
3. Triggering a salmon’s response to chase and nail a bait (e.g. Collie’s and wake flies)
Whatever presentation you are trying to achieve should be driven which one of the 3 above you are trying to achieve; so before you start, ask yourself that question – and remind yourself regularly because it is easy to forget.
When you think about it, TBO is actually a combination of all these things to a limited degree at the same time, and is sometimes all you need to catch a salmon. Go to most beats in Scotland, and on most days, most anglers will be TBO most of the time with roughly the same equipment and flees. Trouble is, TBO isn’t the answer all of the time. So when things get tough said anglers will change their fly a few times, and then claim they’ve tried “everything in the book” when they haven’t caught a fish – hhhmmm Yes you can go round a golf course with a 5 iron, but you are unlikely to be as effective as the person with a variety of clubs designed to meet specific needs and situations.
Deep and Slow In Cold Water – Approach With Circumspection
You know how the drill goes. When the water is ‘cold’ you need to fish as deeply and slowly as possible, preferably with a big fly. The trouble with this is that ‘cold’ water is traditionally defined as a temperature of less than 48f. We would respectfully suggest the slow and deep is really more relevant when the water is below 38f. In temperatures below this salmon do seem more lethargic. They tend to run slower and don’t seem a so inclined to move from their lies. Tynetraveller posted an excellent note on how the Viking King is approaching how to fish deep and slow; can’t add much more to that.
However, if sealiced fish are appearing in beats 30 – 40 miles from the sea then it is silly to say they won’t move to or chase a fly. After all they’ve moved a hell of a long way at speed in the last 24 – 48 hrs! So if in the morning the water temp is 38 – 40 degrees by all means start with something big fished as slowly as possible in the quieter water. However, IOE, salmon will respond reasonably quickly to any method if it is going to work (although see Attacking a Lie below) so if it doesn’t – change the tactic altogether, and don’t be afraid to move a fly.
You should also have the confidence to fish fast water. Splash has already alluded to this in an earlier post, and there has been further chat with Paul Sea Troot. In addition, last season I am aware of some experimentation done (not by us) with the Czech nymph in the resting spots fast water in March and April. It is early days, but the results suggest some perseverance here is worth while.
Angle Verses Distance
On a personal level, for almost twenty years I believed that it was always better to cover a lie by casting to it rather than wading out to it. So I learned to cast longer and longer distances in the belief that I would catch more fish as a result. Well in some circumstances you will, but in the last few years we (and by default I) have seen that is not the case most of the time. So for nearly twenty years I was wrong; but hey, better late than never to realise it. The reason why is that long casting stops you fishing the angle in order to hold the fly above, or fish it more slowly through a particular lie.
It is easier to explain this by way of a real example. Immediately below the boundary of Beat 1 on Beat 2 on Kincardine is the Whinbush. It starts with a series of small natural croys. Conventional wisdom was you stood on the end of the croy and cast as long a line as possible to cover a glassy slick between to boulders where fish regularly show about ¾ of the way across the river. The advice was don’t waste too much time but we sometimes pick up a fish here. I could reach the lies, but nothing much happened. I passed on what I had been told to Dr Philgood.
Dr Philgood took one look at that situation waded out about 2/5ths of the way across the over and above the lie and promptly caught two salmon fishing the same lie, but from a shallow angle where he didn’t need to cast far and it was easy to keep the flies hanging in the taking zone above the fish’s sight window. I’ve now seen this proven time and time again. So, regrettably, I must conclude the adept wader will generally outfish the adept caster most times - but not in every circumstance – see below.
Yellow X is where the fuishies show.
Red X is where the CLaG triumphantly cast over them albeit it for no noticeable effect
Blue XXX is extreme wading point of Dr Philgood that nobody had ever even dreamt of trying before (unless Jim the Fuishie knows otherwsie) – now anyone who can wade gets sent out there, and at 1’ 10” , with table sized boulders (note size of the croys) and a fast current it is about as much fun as swimming with great white sharks (outside the cage) – but you probably will get salmo if they are there.
P.S. After 500 years lost the Spanish Armada finally turned up on Deeside one Saturday last May ;D
Mending
Collie Wuff started a thread on this. However, as I’d already written this in draft I’ll throw it in anyway. If you ask someone doing TBO why they mend at the start of the cast they will probably answer it is to slow the fly down to stop it skating. Fair enough. If you then ask them why they don’t mend more than once or mend in different directions they will generally look at you blankly especially if they are fishing with the favoured inty string of we all know where because the game’s a bogey (and ironically not mending inty string at all is often the best way to fish it).
Multi-mending is one of the most important skills in a salmon fisherman’s armoury, but it is extremely rare to see it done at all, far less well. Through mending you can speed a fly up, slow it down, cut a flee across the flow, for a short while bring it to a halt, bring a fly up in the water or send it down. However, the ability to do that effectively relies on you understanding of the nature and flow of the water you are fishing - back to Reading The Water. It would be impractical to describe all the variations. However, I have previously described the Upstream Downstream mend in the Conditions thread. Here it is again.
As a practical application of what I am talking about think of any pool you know where there is a strip of ten - 15 yards of deep dead water between you and the current. So you can't wade it. The easiest and most effective way of fishing this is the upstream downstream mend. Cast your line square and throw the biggest upstream mend you can. Then watch carefully that part of the line in the current comes round while the belly on the dead water sits almost static. At the point where the line has come to the edge of the current throw the biggest downstream mend you can and watch how the line continues to fish another good few yards. As it finally starts to ease at the fishing end you can start figure of eighting or maybe line stripping as the flee finally comes into the slack.
I thought it would be useful to show you a piece of water where you would use this technique. This is a photograph of Peter Perfect fishing Middle Gannets on the Dee from the Borrowston side. Unfortunately the water is at 2’ and the pool has lost some of its shape. However even then you can see the heavy flow down the middle and the quiet water between it and the bank. It only takes the water to drop a few inches and the inside water marked with the red is almost static. The fish lie along the edge of the current on the Borrowston side where the green X’s are.
Handling
Quite why the debate about handling (i.e. retrieve it while there is still sufficient swing to move the line naturally) for a long time descended into you should always or never do it is nothing short of bizarre. There is a time and place for everything except Morris Dancing. Basically, there are three types of retrieve (ignoring a pseudo retrieve like backing up):
1. Figure of Eight
2. Stripping
3. Roly Poly (where you put the rod under your arm and retrieve using both hands over each other so the retrieve is in continuous motion)
In 1 and 3 the retrieve is continuous, while in 2 there is a gap between each draw of line which you can enhance to create a sink and draw type action. The basic rule is in slow moving water you should impart additional action with a retrieve and in fast water let it swing. Beware ‘basic rules’ in salmon fishing because they have a habit of becoming absolutes overtime.
At this stage we are probably more joined up on our thinking on mending strategy. We have yet to find really consistent rules on use of retrieve (e.g. on the same piece of water at the same height and temperature, when fishing the Sunray the salmon can be mad for it just swinging, and others they want it stripped faster than Gypsy Rose Lee). I’m afraid you will just have to experiment with this (see attacking a lie below). However, by way of some guidance don’t treat the following as gospel unless you want to fish on autopilot:
If knowing when to use what type of retrieve is a bit trial and error on any given day, I would make one observation about takes. On both the fast strip and figures of eight a salmon might nudge the bait several times before taking (just like a Rainbow Trout chasing a lure). My advice is don’t lift the rod into the fish until you feel a solid weight. Here is an end of season 17lbs hen Fish from Upper Floors that nibbled a figure of 8 presented fly 5 or 6 times before finally taking.
Not sure what Ritchie has just thought aboot; best not to dwell...
Free-Lining With Shooting Heads
Free-lining is the art of playing out extra line in order to reduce the tension in the line relative to the current. This will have the effect of creating slack on the leader with two main results:
1. It allows the fly to sink deeper
2. When tension resumes the fly will suddenly jerk away (Note presentation style 2 above)
On the Watsonian beat of the Upper Tweed the fish generally hold the far 1/3 of the river where there is a 5’ trench. When the water height is at 2’ you can get the fly across the lies with standard TBO tactics, but the fly does not have time to fish. We used to try and counter this by using rabbit tubes with extra lead under the body (and here is a picture of the original from 20 years ago)
However, this is only of limited effect and a casting nightmare. So we, independently of the Vikings, have come up with a solution which will work in similar scenarios. You need the following ingredients for this cake:
The technique is to land the fly in the calm water at the far side but, doing so by casting a long way down stream so the current doesn’t (as with TBO) immediately catch the belly of the line at a right angle thus sweeping the fly away. As soon as the fly lands, play out three or four yards of backing. This does two things of practical benefit:
1) It allows the line and fly to settle in the water where the fish are holding. If you use a heavy fly you’ll just hook the bottom even in 5 feet of water.
2) Having allowed the fly to settle in the fishes window, when all tightens the fly will suddenly dart up and shoot away from the fish – bang . It’s just the same as a kitten with a piece of wool
Observe the successful fuishier having hooked das fusihie from the tough lie.
And to its conclussion. For those who remeber when, this is the calibre of fuishie we used to catch on Upper Tweed in autumn before the cost of silver became ten times the cost of Gold
NB The Viking King as described, I think, is doing something different (but equally effective). His technique is for where fish are spread all over the water and he is trying to fan the line deep across a range of water (much like the presentational effect of Harling) – hence the use of the “Double Dunter” (disappointed with all the chat from Stormont rods that this little treasure hasn’t raised it’s head) and pulsating fly – this is similar to how you fish “The Future State of Salmon Fishing” where it is not banned
Cast & Step/Attacking a Lie
IOE Cast & Step is more a rule of etiquette than a useful fishing tactic (if you are searching the water cast and five steps is more useful). However, it is the observed rule when someone if fishing behind or opposite you. Personally, I think it would be good to allow the golfing standard which is that slow players automatically let quicker ones pass through. That said if I have someone not observing cast & step I ask politely if I can go below them, in 99% of cases they say yes.
Meanwhile, back to what is deficient about cast and step; you can’t attack a lie properly with it. If we know fish are in a particular area of river we might want to attack them. Sometimes presenting a fly once across them is enough, but often it is not. Remember the 3 core presentational styles. Well if we know a fish is there we will want to try all of those to induce a take. You can’t do that with Cast & Step. Certain techniques like skated flies and Czech Nymph lend themselves well to casting at the same piece of water several times at different angles. Or once you have wound the fish up a bit, come out and swing a conventional fly over them.
Unfortunately, this sort of strategy is really only available to you where you have both banks and a designated piece of water e.g. Upper Floors, the Thurso etc
Finally, a quick note to explain why Attacking a Lie is so important. Pictured below is the bottom of the falls of the Ullapool River. Behind the two big rocks marked X a mini pool forms. When the salmon are running in lowish water they will hold in this mini pool. The stealthy angler can carefully wade up to those rocks and look over at the fish. You can then lower a bait over and watch the reactions of the fish. What it taught us is that you can lower a bait in 15 times and 15 times a salmon will rush up and chase the bait turning away at the last minute. Then on the sixteenth time it will grab it
I did say I’d post a number of threads on other subjects. However, for business reasons I won’t have the time to do this in the near future, other than on the Collie Dog following on from the Article that is in April T&S.
However, as what has been posted so far seems to be nothing new to a couple of posters here, I am sure they will do the decent unselfish thing and post detailed threads on the outstanding subjects for people to whom this sort of stuff is new – won’t you
Regardeth
CLaG
This is thread number 3 of the posts I was challenged to produce If Reading [The] Water requires a book, then this topic could fill a library. So at a very high level, some observations on the following:
1. 3 Core Presentational Styles
2. Deep and Slow in Cold Water – Approach with Circumspection
3. Angle Verses Distance
4. Mending
5. Handling
6. Free-Lining With Shooting Heads
7. Cast and Step/Attacking the Lie
As with other threads there are a couple of assumptions:
1. This is about using double handed fly rods with some form of floating, multi-sectioned tip line or shooting head
2. I assume that most people are comfortable with “Whamming it out at 45 degrees, mending and letting it swing” – aka The Bleedin’ Obvious (TBO)
All observations and comments, counter or otherwise welcome.
Three Core Presentational Styles
In presenting the flee (or flees) you are generally trying to achieve one of three things:
1. Holding a bait in front of a salmon as long as you can (e.g. J-Curving on narrow angles)
2. Inducing a take i.e. by suddenly moving a bait away from in front of it’s neb (e.g. Czech Nymphing)
3. Triggering a salmon’s response to chase and nail a bait (e.g. Collie’s and wake flies)
Whatever presentation you are trying to achieve should be driven which one of the 3 above you are trying to achieve; so before you start, ask yourself that question – and remind yourself regularly because it is easy to forget.
When you think about it, TBO is actually a combination of all these things to a limited degree at the same time, and is sometimes all you need to catch a salmon. Go to most beats in Scotland, and on most days, most anglers will be TBO most of the time with roughly the same equipment and flees. Trouble is, TBO isn’t the answer all of the time. So when things get tough said anglers will change their fly a few times, and then claim they’ve tried “everything in the book” when they haven’t caught a fish – hhhmmm Yes you can go round a golf course with a 5 iron, but you are unlikely to be as effective as the person with a variety of clubs designed to meet specific needs and situations.
Deep and Slow In Cold Water – Approach With Circumspection
You know how the drill goes. When the water is ‘cold’ you need to fish as deeply and slowly as possible, preferably with a big fly. The trouble with this is that ‘cold’ water is traditionally defined as a temperature of less than 48f. We would respectfully suggest the slow and deep is really more relevant when the water is below 38f. In temperatures below this salmon do seem more lethargic. They tend to run slower and don’t seem a so inclined to move from their lies. Tynetraveller posted an excellent note on how the Viking King is approaching how to fish deep and slow; can’t add much more to that.
However, if sealiced fish are appearing in beats 30 – 40 miles from the sea then it is silly to say they won’t move to or chase a fly. After all they’ve moved a hell of a long way at speed in the last 24 – 48 hrs! So if in the morning the water temp is 38 – 40 degrees by all means start with something big fished as slowly as possible in the quieter water. However, IOE, salmon will respond reasonably quickly to any method if it is going to work (although see Attacking a Lie below) so if it doesn’t – change the tactic altogether, and don’t be afraid to move a fly.
You should also have the confidence to fish fast water. Splash has already alluded to this in an earlier post, and there has been further chat with Paul Sea Troot. In addition, last season I am aware of some experimentation done (not by us) with the Czech nymph in the resting spots fast water in March and April. It is early days, but the results suggest some perseverance here is worth while.
Angle Verses Distance
On a personal level, for almost twenty years I believed that it was always better to cover a lie by casting to it rather than wading out to it. So I learned to cast longer and longer distances in the belief that I would catch more fish as a result. Well in some circumstances you will, but in the last few years we (and by default I) have seen that is not the case most of the time. So for nearly twenty years I was wrong; but hey, better late than never to realise it. The reason why is that long casting stops you fishing the angle in order to hold the fly above, or fish it more slowly through a particular lie.
It is easier to explain this by way of a real example. Immediately below the boundary of Beat 1 on Beat 2 on Kincardine is the Whinbush. It starts with a series of small natural croys. Conventional wisdom was you stood on the end of the croy and cast as long a line as possible to cover a glassy slick between to boulders where fish regularly show about ¾ of the way across the river. The advice was don’t waste too much time but we sometimes pick up a fish here. I could reach the lies, but nothing much happened. I passed on what I had been told to Dr Philgood.
Dr Philgood took one look at that situation waded out about 2/5ths of the way across the over and above the lie and promptly caught two salmon fishing the same lie, but from a shallow angle where he didn’t need to cast far and it was easy to keep the flies hanging in the taking zone above the fish’s sight window. I’ve now seen this proven time and time again. So, regrettably, I must conclude the adept wader will generally outfish the adept caster most times - but not in every circumstance – see below.
Yellow X is where the fuishies show.
Red X is where the CLaG triumphantly cast over them albeit it for no noticeable effect
Blue XXX is extreme wading point of Dr Philgood that nobody had ever even dreamt of trying before (unless Jim the Fuishie knows otherwsie) – now anyone who can wade gets sent out there, and at 1’ 10” , with table sized boulders (note size of the croys) and a fast current it is about as much fun as swimming with great white sharks (outside the cage) – but you probably will get salmo if they are there.
P.S. After 500 years lost the Spanish Armada finally turned up on Deeside one Saturday last May ;D
Mending
Collie Wuff started a thread on this. However, as I’d already written this in draft I’ll throw it in anyway. If you ask someone doing TBO why they mend at the start of the cast they will probably answer it is to slow the fly down to stop it skating. Fair enough. If you then ask them why they don’t mend more than once or mend in different directions they will generally look at you blankly especially if they are fishing with the favoured inty string of we all know where because the game’s a bogey (and ironically not mending inty string at all is often the best way to fish it).
Multi-mending is one of the most important skills in a salmon fisherman’s armoury, but it is extremely rare to see it done at all, far less well. Through mending you can speed a fly up, slow it down, cut a flee across the flow, for a short while bring it to a halt, bring a fly up in the water or send it down. However, the ability to do that effectively relies on you understanding of the nature and flow of the water you are fishing - back to Reading The Water. It would be impractical to describe all the variations. However, I have previously described the Upstream Downstream mend in the Conditions thread. Here it is again.
As a practical application of what I am talking about think of any pool you know where there is a strip of ten - 15 yards of deep dead water between you and the current. So you can't wade it. The easiest and most effective way of fishing this is the upstream downstream mend. Cast your line square and throw the biggest upstream mend you can. Then watch carefully that part of the line in the current comes round while the belly on the dead water sits almost static. At the point where the line has come to the edge of the current throw the biggest downstream mend you can and watch how the line continues to fish another good few yards. As it finally starts to ease at the fishing end you can start figure of eighting or maybe line stripping as the flee finally comes into the slack.
I thought it would be useful to show you a piece of water where you would use this technique. This is a photograph of Peter Perfect fishing Middle Gannets on the Dee from the Borrowston side. Unfortunately the water is at 2’ and the pool has lost some of its shape. However even then you can see the heavy flow down the middle and the quiet water between it and the bank. It only takes the water to drop a few inches and the inside water marked with the red is almost static. The fish lie along the edge of the current on the Borrowston side where the green X’s are.
Handling
Quite why the debate about handling (i.e. retrieve it while there is still sufficient swing to move the line naturally) for a long time descended into you should always or never do it is nothing short of bizarre. There is a time and place for everything except Morris Dancing. Basically, there are three types of retrieve (ignoring a pseudo retrieve like backing up):
1. Figure of Eight
2. Stripping
3. Roly Poly (where you put the rod under your arm and retrieve using both hands over each other so the retrieve is in continuous motion)
In 1 and 3 the retrieve is continuous, while in 2 there is a gap between each draw of line which you can enhance to create a sink and draw type action. The basic rule is in slow moving water you should impart additional action with a retrieve and in fast water let it swing. Beware ‘basic rules’ in salmon fishing because they have a habit of becoming absolutes overtime.
At this stage we are probably more joined up on our thinking on mending strategy. We have yet to find really consistent rules on use of retrieve (e.g. on the same piece of water at the same height and temperature, when fishing the Sunray the salmon can be mad for it just swinging, and others they want it stripped faster than Gypsy Rose Lee). I’m afraid you will just have to experiment with this (see attacking a lie below). However, by way of some guidance don’t treat the following as gospel unless you want to fish on autopilot:
- In very slow flows you must move the fly by retrieve
- In faster streams you must not retrieve
If knowing when to use what type of retrieve is a bit trial and error on any given day, I would make one observation about takes. On both the fast strip and figures of eight a salmon might nudge the bait several times before taking (just like a Rainbow Trout chasing a lure). My advice is don’t lift the rod into the fish until you feel a solid weight. Here is an end of season 17lbs hen Fish from Upper Floors that nibbled a figure of 8 presented fly 5 or 6 times before finally taking.
Not sure what Ritchie has just thought aboot; best not to dwell...
Free-Lining With Shooting Heads
Free-lining is the art of playing out extra line in order to reduce the tension in the line relative to the current. This will have the effect of creating slack on the leader with two main results:
1. It allows the fly to sink deeper
2. When tension resumes the fly will suddenly jerk away (Note presentation style 2 above)
On the Watsonian beat of the Upper Tweed the fish generally hold the far 1/3 of the river where there is a 5’ trench. When the water height is at 2’ you can get the fly across the lies with standard TBO tactics, but the fly does not have time to fish. We used to try and counter this by using rabbit tubes with extra lead under the body (and here is a picture of the original from 20 years ago)
However, this is only of limited effect and a casting nightmare. So we, independently of the Vikings, have come up with a solution which will work in similar scenarios. You need the following ingredients for this cake:
- A very fast sinking shooting head
- 4’ Leader
- A plastic tube (NB go against all your instincts to fish a weighted fly in high water
The technique is to land the fly in the calm water at the far side but, doing so by casting a long way down stream so the current doesn’t (as with TBO) immediately catch the belly of the line at a right angle thus sweeping the fly away. As soon as the fly lands, play out three or four yards of backing. This does two things of practical benefit:
1) It allows the line and fly to settle in the water where the fish are holding. If you use a heavy fly you’ll just hook the bottom even in 5 feet of water.
2) Having allowed the fly to settle in the fishes window, when all tightens the fly will suddenly dart up and shoot away from the fish – bang . It’s just the same as a kitten with a piece of wool
Observe the successful fuishier having hooked das fusihie from the tough lie.
And to its conclussion. For those who remeber when, this is the calibre of fuishie we used to catch on Upper Tweed in autumn before the cost of silver became ten times the cost of Gold
NB The Viking King as described, I think, is doing something different (but equally effective). His technique is for where fish are spread all over the water and he is trying to fan the line deep across a range of water (much like the presentational effect of Harling) – hence the use of the “Double Dunter” (disappointed with all the chat from Stormont rods that this little treasure hasn’t raised it’s head) and pulsating fly – this is similar to how you fish “The Future State of Salmon Fishing” where it is not banned
Cast & Step/Attacking a Lie
IOE Cast & Step is more a rule of etiquette than a useful fishing tactic (if you are searching the water cast and five steps is more useful). However, it is the observed rule when someone if fishing behind or opposite you. Personally, I think it would be good to allow the golfing standard which is that slow players automatically let quicker ones pass through. That said if I have someone not observing cast & step I ask politely if I can go below them, in 99% of cases they say yes.
Meanwhile, back to what is deficient about cast and step; you can’t attack a lie properly with it. If we know fish are in a particular area of river we might want to attack them. Sometimes presenting a fly once across them is enough, but often it is not. Remember the 3 core presentational styles. Well if we know a fish is there we will want to try all of those to induce a take. You can’t do that with Cast & Step. Certain techniques like skated flies and Czech Nymph lend themselves well to casting at the same piece of water several times at different angles. Or once you have wound the fish up a bit, come out and swing a conventional fly over them.
Unfortunately, this sort of strategy is really only available to you where you have both banks and a designated piece of water e.g. Upper Floors, the Thurso etc
Finally, a quick note to explain why Attacking a Lie is so important. Pictured below is the bottom of the falls of the Ullapool River. Behind the two big rocks marked X a mini pool forms. When the salmon are running in lowish water they will hold in this mini pool. The stealthy angler can carefully wade up to those rocks and look over at the fish. You can then lower a bait over and watch the reactions of the fish. What it taught us is that you can lower a bait in 15 times and 15 times a salmon will rush up and chase the bait turning away at the last minute. Then on the sixteenth time it will grab it
I did say I’d post a number of threads on other subjects. However, for business reasons I won’t have the time to do this in the near future, other than on the Collie Dog following on from the Article that is in April T&S.
However, as what has been posted so far seems to be nothing new to a couple of posters here, I am sure they will do the decent unselfish thing and post detailed threads on the outstanding subjects for people to whom this sort of stuff is new – won’t you
Regardeth
CLaG